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Still, they never fully reveal their journey or destination, and may often signify little else than their own commodity status, the total genericness of the fashion product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBringing together a wide range of artists, thinkers, and writers, the issue sets out to explore clothes as a signifier at once empty and over-burdened: as expressions of desires, people and places, as palimpsests for capitalist production cycles and histories of dressed bodies, and even, as nondescript material debris. While not necessarily foregoing an analysis of the fashion system, we hope to develop a form of fashion criticism that begins – and perhaps ends – with the single garment, that takes the everyday use of clothing objects as an intellectual starting point.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat knowledge can we gather from the studying of fashion objects, be they material or immaterial? What is the difference between clothes and fashion? 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It’s not fashion as we’re usually asked to consume it, where ‘beautiful models live beautiful lives wearing beautiful clothes in beautiful homes’. Here we see a Buddhist monk with a Comme des Garçons shopping habit and an Alexander McQueen collector listening to neighbours through paper-thin walls, among others. Photographed at home in Tokyo, with their collections before them, these anonymous disciples joyously detail the ritual and the sacrifice of their brand-name obsessions. Kyoichi’s anti-heroes exist in parallel to the fashion universe of fame, fantasy, and glamour.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile the cover and belly band have been completely reworked, the book’s interior maintains a simple, documental format: one happy victim per spread, Kyoichi’s photos supplemented by a short commentary on the individual and his or her daily schedule. Not typically members of the leisure class, the goths, Lolitas, and stringent Margiela fans must also go to work and find time to care for their clothes. Underlying this sense of relatability is the equal sense that Happy Victims would be hard to reproduce today, when ‘storytelling is manufactured and marketed for the masses’ on social media, and the fashion industry itself has become ‘an infinitely fragmented, diffuse cultural phenomenon’, having lost ground to both fast fashion and street-level trends.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKyoichi is by turns tender and teasing with his happy victims, rejecting all received wisdom that puts them at the bottom of a mythical hierarchy of collecting and celebrates more ‘respected’ collectors of books, art, or music. They’re ‘magic’ to his eyes. 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Tokyo: Comme Des Garcons, 1988-1991. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA complete set of the iconic Comme Des Garçons periodical \u003cem\u003eSix\u003c\/em\u003e. Published bi-annually from 1988 \u003cem\u003eSix\u003c\/em\u003e was a large format magazine acting as a conceptual look-book for the Comme brand. Sumptuously printed, the pages are full of energy with numerous cut-out details and spot colours. Tsuguya Inoue's design gives each volume its own visual language seamlessly pairing archival material with work by leading image makers. The large scale of a folio format gives space to contributions from Salvadore Dali, Robert Frank, Josef Koudelka, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Peter Lindbergh, Alaia, Issey Miyake, Gilbert \u0026amp; George, Kishin Shinoyama and many others. Deliberately image-led and enigmatic, Rei Kawakubo envisioned the magazine as an exploration of a 'sixth sense'. Kawakubo says of the project: \"High fashion has to have a mystery about it. 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Entirely untethered from materiality and image, sound is the proof that fashion operates just as vividly in the purely atmospheric. From the artfully curated musical narratives of the runway to the ambient sonic environment of shops, fashion both emits sounds and seeks to associate itself with it for its own advancement. Music in particular asserts fashion’s existential relationship to time: it aesthetically time-keeps fashion media and confirms sartorial novelty by mirroring it rhythmically. To a public consciousness, the intimate relationship between fashion and music is obvious and at times even understood as one and the same. Sound glues material such as clothes to wider zeitgeists and mediated lifestyles, and as such, to cultural memory itself. As Mary E. Davis has illuminated, the alliance is profoundly historic: as far back as 1672, fashion periodicals have covered clothes and music as equally essential components of an elegant, fashionable lifestyle.  Music, in fact, surrounds fashion: it enwraps makers, mediators, and consumers alike in ephemeral, yet intensely meaningful, signifiers of taste. Countless designers have come to fashion through musical subcultures, and labors in ateliers to particular playlists. Indeed, style most often has a soundtrack of its own, or dances to a specific tune.  Fashion emits sounds before and after the musical. The clicking of heels, the rustling of a sweater, the hissing of a zipper. The ambient humming of a sewing machine; the conclusive “beep” from a store cashier. For the 8th issue of Viscose, we set out to examine the sonic landscapes of fashion in a most expansive manner. In billing our issue “sound” we seek to gesture to more visually obscure and materially ephemeral interplays between fashion and the auditory—in wardrobes and shops, on the body and in the nightclub.  With music culture at the center of our inquiry, we hope to seek beyond and towards the more ephemeral sounds the clothing and fashion emits, records, and appropriates. We are pursuing the possibility of rendering fashion in entirely sonic terms, and how this translates into written words, in a print magazine. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMAX ALPER, ARLETTE, SIGURD BANK, LIZZI BOUGATSOS, ANA HOWE BUKOWSKI, UPSANA DAS, AISHA DEVI, ENANTIOS DROMOS, ANA VIKTORIA DZINIC, DAN FOX, RYAN AGUILAR \u0026amp; MICHEL GAUBERT, THEODORE JHANG, SOWMYA KRISHNAMURTHY, LABOUR, MARK LECKEY, HANNE LIPPARD, PROJECT X MAGAZINE, CHLOÉ MARATTA, LUIS MANUEL GARCIA-MISPIRETA \u0026amp; MICHAEL MEEUWIS, ELLEN SCHAFER \u0026amp; NICHOLAS MILLER, ASHLAND MINES, WOMEN’S HISTORY MUSEUM, CHEUK NG, CHRISTIAN ALBORZ OLDHAM, PILOOSKI, YAT PIT, SETH PRICE, FRÉDÉRIC SANCHEZ, HYEIN SEO, CARRIE STACKS, DANNY TAYLOR, TERRE THAEMLITZ, VALENTINA TRIET, JEPPE UGELVIG, ARAN ATSUO (CHARLOT ABHORS A VOID, MARLEY WENDT, SKYPE WILLIAMS\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eViscose, 2025\u003cbr\u003eSoftcover\u003cbr\u003e220 x 300mm \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Tenderbooks","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":56041040183673,"sku":null,"price":28.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0488\/8029\/files\/Tenderbooks_f88a3784-60c2-4587-9d34-42e108de19fd.jpg?v=1761139446"},{"product_id":"more-blommers-schumm","title":"More - Blommers \u0026 Schumm","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eMore\u003c\/em\u003e is a compelling visual archive that brings together over 25 years of collaborative work by Dutch duo Blommers \u0026amp; Schumm. Known for their unique approach to fashion and portrait photography, Anuschka Blommers and Niels Schumm create meticulously constructed images that appear effortless, yet every element is captured in-camera. Balancing on the edge of the uncanny and the everyday, where a tension emerges between beauty and strangeness, their work often explores the boundaries between public image and private life, commercial styling and autonomous work. The book reveals the artistry behind the quiet disruptions of an intuitive and subversive practice.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eROMA, 2025 \u003cbr\u003eSoftcover, 240pp \u003cbr\u003e320 x 240mm \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Tenderbooks","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":56094858445177,"sku":null,"price":49.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0488\/8029\/files\/Tenderbooks-25_bb9be7ee-7bf7-4db5-aafe-6da9b5e2a813.jpg?v=1761745153"},{"product_id":"the-birth-of-the-cool-style-narratives-of-the-african-diaspora-carol-tulloch","title":"The Birth of the Cool: Style Narratives of the African Diaspora - Carol Tulloch","description":"\u003cp\u003eIt is broadly recognized that black style had a clear and profound influence on the history of dress in the twentieth century, with black culture and fashion having long been defined as ‘cool’. Yet despite this high profile, in-depth explorations of the culture and history of style and dress in the African diaspora are a relatively recent area of enquiry. The Birth of Cool asserts that ‘cool’ is seen as an arbiter of presence, and relates how both iconic and ‘ordinary’ black individuals and groups have marked out their lives through the styling of their bodies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFocusing on counter- and sub-cultural contexts, this book investigates the role of dress in the creation and assertion of black identity. From the gardenia corsage worn by Billie Holiday to the work-wear of female African-Jamaican market traders, through to the home-dressmaking of black Britons in the 1960s, and the meaning of a polo-neck jumper as depicted in a 1934 self-portrait by African-American artist Malvin Gray Johnson, this study looks at the ways in which the diaspora experience is expressed through self-image. Spanning the late nineteenth century to the modern day, the book draws on ready-made and homemade fashion, photographs, paintings and films, published and unpublished biographies and letters from Britain, Jamaica, South Africa, and the United States to consider how personal style statements reflect issues of racial and cultural difference.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eThe Birth of Cool\u003c\/em\u003e is a powerful exploration of how style and dress both initiate and confirm change, and the ways in which they expresses identity and resistance in black culture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBloomsbury, 2020 \u003cbr\u003eSoftcover, 272pp \u003cbr\u003e236 x 156mm \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Tenderbooks","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":56179466502521,"sku":null,"price":28.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0488\/8029\/files\/Tenderbooks-4_717e837e-9b52-4a0a-ac5d-4ce03bc4053a.jpg?v=1762885680"}],"url":"https:\/\/tenderbooks.pro\/collections\/fashion.oembed","provider":"Tenderbooks","version":"1.0","type":"link"}